A creative road trip through New England in the fall

Artists, makers and musicians have long sought refuge in New England’s rugged terrain. Stretching from the rocky Atlantic coast of Maine to the forested hills of Vermont and Massachusetts, its landscape moves between windswept beaches, pine woods, lakes and small towns shaped by the sea, dotted with independent businesses and soulful guesthouses.

The region’s magic is at its most vivid in the fall, when foliage blazes crimson, the air is crisp and farmers’ markets overflow with fresh bounty. Look closer though and you’ll also find its magic in quiet corners of South County salt ponds, on Mid Coast backroads, or in a sauna with a Hi-Fi soundtrack. Lobster rolls are served dockside, pizzas are topped with organic, local fare and firepits finish the night.

Musician, artist and designer Sean W Spellman takes us on a tour of his favourite spots across the Northeast, driving from Rhode Island to Maine, via the seaside town of Westerly, along the coast to Mystic, Connecticut, and stopping at an exemplary hotel in North Adams.

Creative stops in Rhode Island

South County House, Westerly, Rhode Island

Why we rate it: A thoughtfully furnished beach house
Address: Weekapaug neighbourhood

This two-bedroom cape house is owned by musicians Sean Spellman and My Larsdotter. The contemporary interior is furnished with mid-century vintage finds, inspired by design ideas they encountered while staying in a stream of different places on tour. Spellman’s art – all available to buy – hangs on the walls,, alongside a turntable with a curated record selection. A slow pace is encouraged, whether swinging in the garden hammock, sipping drinks on the deck or gathering by the fire. It is a ten minute walk to the beach, with good waves for surfing and an outdoor sauna.

Nanas, Westerly, Rhode Island

Best for: Sourdoughnuts, pizza and great coffee
Address: 82 High Street. Ground Floor, Suite Nanas, Westerly, RI 02891

Nanas mixes pale wood and redbrick, accented by Sean Spellman’s artwork and design and owner James’s collected Mexican pottery. Japan and Scandinavia influence both the design and menu, where koji tomato sauce, shoyu cold foam appear beside brunch classics and sourdough baking. It is also an unlikely home for Rhode Island’s best taco.

Old Man Joe’s, Westerly, Rhode Island

Best for: Loaded bagels and pizza near the beach
Address: 134 Main Street, Westerly, RI 02891

Owners Mark and Marie Vancleve moved to Westerly, Rhode Island, from New Jersey via Brooklyn, so they know a thing about bagels and pizza. Old Man Joe’s is a diamond in the rough in South County. The interior feels like a well-lit basement in the French countryside, in the best way, while their dedication to serving food made with local and organic ingredients is unmatched. There is also an outdoor courtyard with communal seating and a pizza oven. This is a must visit for anyone traveling in Southern New England.

Frank & Laurie’s, Providence, Rhode Island

Best for: Brunch and bellinis with an artsy crowd
Address: 110 Doyle Avenue, Providence, RI 02906

This cozy cafe sits on the corner of Doyle Avenue, Providence’s buzzy thoroughfare. Formerly a bagel shop, it’s a regular hangout among the RISD (Rhode Island School of Design) crowd, who come for its generous brunch dishes. The menu changes frequently, working with local farms and producers, although loaded burgers and toasties are consistently popular. Look out for Friday fish and chips night and weekend baguettes.

Club Frills, Providence, Rhode Island

Best for: Deviled egg Jell-O shots and a punk playlist
Address: 79 Ives Street, Providence, RI 02906

Club Frills riffs on a retro dive bar, with arcade machines, a disco ball and a rock-punk playlist. Inventive cocktails include a blue cheese martini, a sake slush and a fruity twist on a Mai Tai, alongside deviled egg Jell-O shots. Balance the drinks with big burgers, beef tacos or a tuna club.

Creative stops in Maine

Washington Baths, Portland, Maine

Why we rate it: A public sauna and Hi-Fi lounge
Address: Address: 145 Washington Ave, Portland, ME 04101

Washington Baths is a public bathhouse and sauna located in Portland, Maine, owned by local artist Asher Woodworth. It draws on both Scandinavia and Japan’s bathing philosophies, but what really sets it apart is the Hi-Fi system in the lounge, fitted with 1969 Klipschorns, installed long before the trend for listening culture took hold. The baths regularly host experimental music sessions, alongside occasional workshops and screenings, reinforcing its role as a gathering place for the community. It is also refreshingly untainted by influencer presence.

Otyokwa, Bremen, Maine

Best for: Lakeside cabins with nostalgic charm
Address: 244 Nobleboro Road, Bremen, ME 04551

Aesthetically, Otyowka is like stepping into an untouched 1930s Boy Scout camp, which is essentially what it is, with tasteful retouches by John Stiratt (of rock band Wilco) and his wife Crissy. The couple own this sprawling property on a lake in beautiful Mid-Coast Maine.

Five cabins sleep between two and nine guests each, with a separate Kitchen Cabin for cooking and gathering. There is also a bathhouse, sauna and a Rec Hall with games and a turntable stocked with vinyl. Days can be spent exploring forest and meadow trails, wild swimming and finishing with a singalong round the campire. There is also an additional farmhouse, which sleeps ten.

John hosts a yearly music festival in October and the camp is available for nightly stays or full buy-outs. It’s a remarkable, unpretentious, and quiet place that feels like a step back in time.

Cafe Grazie, Rockland, Maine

Best for: Breakfast in a well-designed space
Address: 148 S Main Street, Rockland, ME 04841

Grazie began as a pop-up, first appearing at the annual High Season Market, a celebration of makers each August. Its permanent home is a hybrid space housing a daytime cafe, bakery, florist and yoga studio, with poured concrete floors and sculptural wooden furniture. The bounty of Maine can be seen throughout the menu, spanning breakfast, burritos and excellent bakes.

Seafolk Coffee, Rockport, Maine

Best for: Local produce, coffee and harbour views
Address: 22 Central Street, Rockport, ME 04856

Seafolk is tucked in the mellow little harbour town of Rockport, in a small space with a great view of the water. Like many minimalist new wave cafes, it is bright and airy, with a menu that nods to local producers. Try wild Maine blueberries and locally milled grains, alongside hulking house bakes.

Creative stops in Massachusetts

Tourists, North Adams

Best for: A meaningful tourism model for art, music and adventure
Address: 915 State Road, North Adams, MA 01247

Tourists is a remodelled motel along the Mohawk Trail in North Adams, which has evolved into far more than simply a place to stay.

Owners Ben Svenson and Eric Kerns set out with a vision to become a pillar for the local North Adams community and have succeeded, building art installations through the surrounding forest behind the hotel and reviving the historic Blackinton Mill. They have also renovated several homes in the old mill neighborhood and been instrumental in extending a bike trail connecting North Adams to Williamstown. Stellar cultural programming extends to the local creative community. The weekly ‘Sing for your Slumber’ music series brings musicians from all over the world, alongside art and wellness workshops.

Tourists is a case study of what a good hotel should do: regenerate and uplift the local community, becoming a meaningful vehicle for change while strengthening values of art and culture. It is also an outstanding stay, with gorgeous wood-clad interiors and large windows that frame soaring red maples and American elms.

Creative stops in Connecticut

Eileen of Mystic, Connecticut

Best for: An artist-designed B&B with plenty on its doorstep
Address: 180 Cow Hill Road, Mystic, CT 06355

Artist Joshua Cave and his wife Erin lovingly restored this 18th century farmhouse, creating a peaceful boutique stay just outside Mystic’s bustling centre.

Joshua’s artwork hangs on natural plaster walls, and you’ll likely see Erin tending the garden. You are within easy reach of the area’s restaurants, vineyards and farmers markets, while breakfast includes homemade bread and muffins. This local inn serves as an ongoing creative exercise in art and hospitality, raising expectations in what a B&B can be.

Port of Call, Mystic, Connecticut

Best for: Stellar cocktails and maritime character
Address: 15 Water Street, Mystic, CT 06355

Mystic is a quaint coastal village, where cocktail bar Port of Call has gained national attention. The design of the bar is noteworthy: woodwork throughout the restaurant, including the bathroom, is made from premium lumber and reclaimed wood from historic Mystic Seaport whaling ships. Jade Ayala’s cocktail programme is award-winning, taking inspiration from port cities around the world. To offset some of the starched-collar Mystic feel, the bar also hosts regular drag performances on Sundays.

Harings, Mystic, Connecticut

Best for: Pulling up in your boat for a lobster roll
Address: 15 Riverview Avenue, Noank, CT 06340

Harings location is unbeatable: dockside in a quiet residential neighborhood with a view of the water and offshore islands. The best part for many is that you can pull up on your boat, order dinner, and have a waiter bring a lobster roll right to you.

Firehouse 12, New Haven, Connecticut

Best for: Intimate space for live jazz, vinyl and cocktails
Address: 45 Crown Street, New Haven, CT 06510

Firehouse 12 really shines when DJ Shaki is spinning rare groove from his extensive collection of world music. The bar is dark and the cocktails are on-point. Upstairs, a high-end recording studio doubles as an intimate performance space, where you can catch notable artists like John Zorn and Connecticut-based ensemble Secular Music Group.

Atticus Market, New Haven, Connecticut

Best for: Pizza and an organic grocery market
Address: 771 Orange Street, New Haven, CT 06511

New Haven is known for its pizza. Or as they call it, apizza. Atticus market’s “New Haven-ish” pizza may be one of the city’s best-kept secrets. There is also a fully stocked organic grocery market and great coffee, along with a large outdoor seating area where you can eavesdrop on Yale students’ conversations.