Why is everyone talking about… Albania

The lowdown…

Albania is fast becoming a favourite of travellers seeking a lesser-trodden, lower-cost alternative to busier European neighbours. Its seductive coastline and soaring mountains – plus 300 days of annual sunshine – have recently been complemented by an emerging food and wine scene and a new wave of festivals along its golden shores, not to mention a growing farm stay scene. This newfound appeal hasn’t gone unnoticed, with UN Tourism figures showing Albania recorded the world’s fourth largest increase in international tourist arrivals last year – a 56 per cent uptick since 2019.

All of which marks quite a journey for this former communist state whose landscapes are still studded with the concrete bunkers built to keep the outside world at bay during the 20th century. Today, these quirky architectural relics – many now doubling as galleries and venues – form part of the charm of this charismatic country, which offers olive-lined coves and bays of the calibre of Croatia or Italy for much less than the Med, as well as flight-free access from Italy, Greece, North Macedonia and Montenegro.

“It’s only once people visit Albania that they realise its affordable prices are just a small part of why the country is so great,” says Ellie Gill of sustainable travel agency Byway, which offers a newly launched itinerary that explores Albania by train or ferry. “The countryside is rugged but beautiful with charming towns that are steeped in history, such as Gjirokastër, and the people are some of the most hospitable in Europe.” Case in point? President Bajram Begaj granted Glastonbury headliner Dua Lipa Albanian citizenship in 2022 for her efforts in promoting the country of her parents in her music.

Here we pinpoint where to eat, stay and play in Albania.

Why it’s hot…

While rumours swirl of luxury hotel group Aman’s interest in locating a new resort on Albania’s uninhabited Sazan Island, the country’s real drawcard is the music revolution unfolding on the Albanian Riviera. This 120 kilometre coastal stretch on the Ionian Sea – where beaches such as Ksamil rank among the region’s best –  now hosts a string of boutique festivals on the white sands of Dhërmi. Kala Festival kicked off the 2024 season in June, pairing holistic workshops with an eclectic mix of live music and DJ sets. In September, seven-day ION festival returns for its fourth edition featuring performances from Melody, Ben Klock, DJ Nobu and Sherelle, with sound healing and cold water therapy all included in the cost. In the capital, Tirana Film Festival is another cultural highlight, bringing the best independent filmmakers and creatives to the capital during the last week of September.

What to expect…

There’s plenty to be said for Albania’s Mediterranean-accented traditional fare – with flaky bureks and fërgesë (a summer-style stew consisting of tomato, green peppers and cottage cheese) among the standouts – but a new generation of chefs are helping put the country firmly on the map. In the capital of Tirana, chef Bledar Kola (formerly of New Nordic hotspots Noma and Fäviken) serves an eight-course tasting menu inspired by his grandmother’s cooking at his restaurant Mullixhiu for just 30 EUR. A flourishing wine movement is happening in the port city of Durrës, too, where Abaia Winery produces five biodynamic wine labels, which can be tasted on its superb vineyard tour.

Don’t miss…

To the north, the Albanian Alps (known to locals as the Accursed Mountains) are the ultimate playground for outdoor enthusiasts, thanks to a network of trails that lead through wild citrus trees, crystalline waterfalls and dramatic canyons. Theth National Park is suitable for both beginners and experienced hikers, while Grunsai waterfall is just an hour’s ramble from Theth village. Elsewhere, Koman Lake’s emerald waters are great for kayaking and wild swimming, while Osum Canyon draws rafters and expert climbers.

How to do it…

Tirana airport is the country’s principal entry point for overseas arrivals, while ferries from Greece and Italy dock at Durrës, Vlorë and Saranda daily. While Albania has no real train network to speak of, buses offer a slower, scenic alternative from neighbouring countries and between coast and interior. In Tirana, Blerina’s Agritourism Concept is a great suburban base with a farm-to-fork ethos. While in town, make tracks for Blloku, a neighbourhood known for its lively nightlife, or the culinary hub of Zona 1. Those headed for the Riviera should bed down at boutique hotel Zoe Hora on the shores of Dhërmi, or along the coast at Inn Hotel Vlorë on Jonufra Beach.