A guide to Belleville, Paris’s buzzy creative neighbourhood

While the Eiffel Tower casts its spell on the Paris skyline, the city’s true heartbeat echoes through its rambling inner-city neighbourhoods. Stretching across four arrondissements in eastern Paris, Belleville, or beautiful town, is an effervescent sprawl of cultures, histories and artistic expression. Once home to 20th-century French singer Edith Piaf, the winding, mural-clad streets of this hilly neighbourhood offers a vibrant alternative to the polished boulevards and Hausmannian facades of central Paris.

Its history has been shaped by waves of immigration from Vietnam, Africa, China and Greece, with each community leaving a patina on the cultural landscape. In the 1970s, crumbling structures and vacant lots were transformed by urban renovation projects and a new influx of artists repurposed industrial spaces into studios. Opening in the 1980s, the Ateliers d’artistes de Belleville, a collective of 250 artists, solidified the area’s reputation as a creative hub and, while gentrification has followed the arrival of affluent young professionals, Belleville’s boho energy remains.

Today it’s a hum of independent coffee shops and old-school bistros alongside North African spice stores and produce markets heaped with exotic fruits and antique brocantes. Decidedly not postcard-perfect Paris, Belleville resonates with those seeking an alternative Paris experience where history, art and the city’s diverse communities intertwine.

Here are some of the best places to stay, eat and play.

The best hotels in Belleville

The down-to-earth Hotel Scarlett is a boutique sanctuary in a once-abandoned industrial building, Its 30 petite but light-filled rooms and calm convivial spaces feature furnishings made from recycled materials and antique-inspired fixtures that feels elegant yet unpretentious. For those seeking a more dynamic, socially oriented space, Mama Shelter Paris East offers quirky, playfully designed rooms and shared spaces with a design overseen by Philippe Starck, while Italian eateries and a buzzy rooftop dotted with foosball tables and colourful hammocks attracts both locals and visitors.

Elsewhere, Babel Belleville is considered one of the best hotels in Paris and provides a sustainable haven for the eco-conscious traveller. Almost everything is sourced locally, reflective of a plugged-in community ethos: beer is brewed in the neighbourhood by Les Bières de Belleville and Fauve coffee is from la Brûlerie de Jourdain, while the organic fruits and vegetables are sourced from Zingam, a local, boutique chain of organic grocery stores. Tucked away on a discreet, quiet street, the family-run Hotel La Nouvelle République exudes bohemian charm. Cosy, carefully curated rooms and close proximity to rooftop bar Le Perchoir and the Parc de Belleville offer an intimate immersion into Belleville’s neighbourhood essence.

The best restaurants in Belleville

Many of the best restaurants in Paris are placed in Belleville. Begin your day with a bracing cold brew or creamy oat milk latte at Candle Kids, a neighbourhood favourite serving coffee and pastries, tucked away on a quiet intersection off the main drag. Floreal Belleville on Rue des Couronnes, the foot of Parc de Belleville, offers a sun-bathed terrace and formidable brunch options in a Brooklyn-via-Paris setting defined by floor-to-ceiling windows and exposed brick walls.

For lunch, Paloma’s humble but inventive three-course menus change daily and are a steal at 15 EUR. The upscale canteen vibe sets the stage for dishes showcasing local produce. Its thoughtfully curated wine list ensures a perfect pairing for every dish, enhancing the flavours of the expertly prepared cuisine. Expansive windows flood the interior with light, offering charming street views for those who haven’t snagged a coveted terrace seat.

At Le Baratin, the bistronomic artistry of Argentinian chef Raquel Carena – think crusted beef cheek or oyster ceviche, sweetbreads and cervelle (brain) – are complemented by the natural wine expertise of Philippe Pinoteau. Although known for its prickly service, this Belleville institution attracts food and wine enthusiasts, (such as Anthony Bourdain who popularised the restaurant by crowning it his favourite in Paris) who travel from far and wide.

After dark, Soces or Le Grand Bain offer modern French plates and natural wines in a laid-back, unstudied atmosphere. Alternatively, head to the campy karaoke restaurant Chinatown Belleville with its cavernous dining hall and capacious tables. Come for the pan-Asian cuisine and stay for the raucous karaoke that breaks out as patrons gain liquid courage.

The best shops in Belleville

Belleville’s shopping scene eschews high-end luxury in favour of independent spirit. For those seeking vintage treasures, Friperie Spoutnik, a trove of clothing and accessories, can provide one-of-a-kind finds at affordable prices. Similarly, Vintage 77, a vintage and consignment shop overflows with steals on shoes, coats, scarves and dresses from brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Yves Saint Laurent.

At Malo studio, an atelier and retail outlet for tableware and objets, ceramic artist Emilie Brichard creates timeless stoneware tableware, each piece meticulously wheel-thrown and imbued with the spirit of artisanal pottery.

For wine enthusiasts who prefer a souvenir in portable form, La Cave de Belleville specialises in natural and biodynamic selections. The staff are patient (important for non-French speakers!) and will guide you through their extensive collection. Artisanal meats and cheeses are on offer, and chosen bottles can be enjoyed at one of the countertops alongside a tidy snacking menu.

The best things to do in Belleville

Each Tuesday and Friday the Marché Belleville draws locals with an array of produce and international delicacies. Another local institution is La Bellevilloise arts and cultural centre, housed in a former workers’ cooperative off the main drag, which stands as a cultural cornerstone of the community. Showcasing both emerging and established artists, its programme encompasses concerts, exhibitions, film screenings and workshops, mirroring the neighbourhood’s eclectic spirit. La Bellevilloise acts as a platform for creative expression and cultural exchange, contributing to Belleville’s reputation as an artistic hub.

Similarly, the creative community opens its doors to the public at the Ateliers d’Artistes de Belleville (AAB) association, a collective of over 250 artists and 23 collectives working in visual arts. With the aim of integrating artists into the urban landscape and protecting creative spaces, it promotes the work of its members and the cultural richness of Belleville with regular exhibitions, open studios and artistic events. The annual Portes Ouvertes (open doors) each May sees the area’s independent artists open up their spaces to the public.

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, a 25-hectare park, is a popular escape with its lake, waterfalls, and city views. Once the grim site of the Royal Court gallows, the park was created in 1864 by Baron Haussman, the Prefect of Paris under Napoleon III. Today, it draws joggers, picnicking friends and lazy lovers. A lesser known green space, La Petite Ceinture, is a repurposed railway line turned tree-lined pathway that winds through Belleville, providing a glimpse into its industrial past while offering a peaceful route for pedestrians and cyclists. And, of course, no visit to Belleville is complete without a contemplative stroll through the iconic Père Lachaise Cemetery. This sprawling necropolis, the final resting place of legends like Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, and Oscar Wilde, is a poignant reminder of the neighbourhood’s rich history and cultural significance.