Exploring Baixa and Chiado, Lisbon’s historic heart

Baixa and Chiado sit at Lisbon’s bustling centre: swish storefronts line sun-bleached streets, while locals sip espresso on mosaic-tiled pavements. Look more closely, however, and you’ll find artisanal shops that reflect a history of trade and handcraftsmanship: a centuries-old candlemaker, storied bookshops and haberdasheries.

Baixa and Chiado are separate neighbourhoods, grouped together by locals due to proximity. They also share a metro station, Baixa-Chiado, with one exit dropping you into Baixa’s grid-like streets, while the other leads uphill into Chiado’s literary cafés, theatres and boutiques.

Baixa means “low” or “downtown” and is very flat. It is best known for its neoclassical Pombaline architecture and restaurant-lined squares: Praça do Comércio faces the river, while Praça do Rossio is paved in waves, reflective of Lisbon’s decorative stonework.

Chiado is the district’s hilly uptown, where independent shops sit beside global brands on Rua Garrett and Rua do Carmo. Arco da Rua Augusta is the soaring triumphal arch that leads to Baixa, and which was built to commemorate the area’s reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake.

To mark the arrival of the new Andaz Lisbon, by Hyatt, we share our favourite addresses in the area.

Livraria Bertrand bookstore

Best for: The world’s oldest operating bookshop
Address: Rua Garrett, Chiado, Lisbon

Located opposite A Brasileira (above) and recognisable by its blue tied facade, Bertrand was founded by two French brothers in 1732. While there are now several branches across Lisbon, the original flagship draws crowds for its history and design. Seven rooms are connected by vaulted archways, with a hidden cafe at the back. Books are available in multiple languages and each purchase can be stamped with a commemorative mark in your language of choice, making Bertrand a must-visit for multilingual book lovers.

Caza das Vellas Loreto

Best for: Historic craft and olfactory charm
Address: Rua do Loreto 53, 1200-241 Lisboa, Portugal

Caza das Vellas Loreto is among the world’s oldest candlemakers, founded on 14 July 1789, coinciding with the beginning of the French Revolution. It has remained in the same family ever since. Enshrined in time, the store has the feel of a small wooden chapel with arched doorways and shelves displaying candles according to the liturgical and seasonal calendar. Classic shapes sit alongside candles shaped like pomegranates, apples and golden pine cones, while the shop also specialises in hand-decorated designs, with bespoke orders available. Follow your nose to find the shop: its signature aromatic blend of honey and essential oils drifts down the cobbled Loreto street.

A Vida Portuguesa

Best for: Portuguese design in a historic former bookshop
Address: Rua Nova do Almada 72, Chiado, Lisbon

A Vida Portuguesa, meaning “the Portuguese life”, presents a thoughtful selection of Portuguese goods, curated by Catarina Portas, with four shops across Lisbon. The Chiado location is set across two floors of the former Livraria Férin bookshop, founded here in 1840.

Dyed willow-straw baskets, woven Alentejo rugs and ceramics are displayed in antique cabinets beneath vaulted stone arches. Wellbeing products with vintage labels intact include Benamôr facial creams and Portugal’s Paste Couto toothpaste.

Luvaria Ulisses

Best for: Master glovemaking with old-world elegance
Address: R. do Carmo 87 A, 1200-093 Lisbon

Luvaria Ulisses is the last remaining leather glovemaker in Lisbon. Dating back to 1925, it captures a bygone era of hand-craftsmanship, behind its original neoclassical facade. The diminutive, wood-lined shop holds just two people comfortably; enough room to measure and fit the perfect leather glove, softened with talcum powder to ease over your hand. Choose from an extensive rainbow of buttery bright and neutral hues, with options for linings, embroidery and button details. The gloves are handmade by skilled artisans in the nearby workshop.

Taberna da Rua das Flores

Best for: Old-school Portuguese hospitality
Address: Rua das Flores 103 109, 1200-194 Lisbon

Tascas are traditional and unpretentious Portuguese restaurants and Taberna da Rua das Flores is one of the finest examples, tucked away on a narrow Chiado street. The menu is scrawled on a chalkboard and shaped by what’s fresh that day: grilled octopus, stuffed crab shells, all paired with local wines in an intimate, lively space. There are no reservations, so arrive early, put your name down and go grab a drink at the rooftop bar and former 18th century palace, Palácio Chiado, five minutes walk away, or embrace the wait.

The National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC)

Best for: An immersion in Portuguese art
Address: R. Serpa Pinto 4, 1200-444 Lisbon

The MNAC in Chiado showcases Portuguese art, from the 19th-century to the contemporary scene. Occupying a former convent, the compact museum also includes a sculpture garden and cafe, offering a quiet retreat from Chiado’s bustle. Highlights on display include Naturalist portraits, dramatic Romantic landscapes, and a strong collection of Modernist works by painters such as Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso and Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro. A longitudinal outdoor terrace on the top level of the museum offers panoramic views of Lisbon and the river Tagus.

Toca da Raposa

Best for: Botanical cocktails inspired by Portugal’s wild terroir
Address: R. da Condessa 45, 1200-302 Lisbon

With raw concrete walls and low lighting, this intimate cocktail bar is an atmospheric spot after exploring the streets of Chiado. Each drink is named after an animal and crafted with locally foraged plants and herbs, often featuring up to 15 different ingredients. Try the Wolf, with whisky, eucalyptus and melon. When not behind the bar, founder Constança Cordeiro hosts guided foraging expeditions outside of Lisbon and Portugal’s wild terroir inspires her menu.

Andaz Lisbon, by Hyatt

Best for: A celebration of Portuguese craft with a buzzy rooftop
Address: R. do Comércio 132, 1100-150 Lisbon, Portugal
Price: From 360 EUR per night

Andaz Lisbon occupies a former bank, transforming the 18th-century building into a buzzy boutique hotel. Designed by Patricia Urquiola, original features mix with vivid colour and contemporary art, inspired by Portugal’s craft heritage. Cork artwork by Beatrice Bonafini hangs in the lounge, while ceramic pitchers by Studio KRUS accent the marble staircase. Geometric textile patterns echo the city’s stonework, while rooms combine mahogany, mosaic tiles and local Lioz stone.

Dine on the rooftop restaurant, with views towards the triumphal Arco da Rua Augusta, while live music accompanies drinks on the terrace.

Use code ROADBOOK to save 15 per cent on stays booked and taken before 31 December 2026.

Museu Do Design E Da Moda (MUDE)

Best for: A deep dive into Portuguese design
Address: R. Augusta 24, 1100-053 Lisbon

Spread across eight floors, MUDE explores the influence and evolution of design through fashion, furniture, graphics and everyday objects. Set in a historic former bank, the building’s past flickers in raw concrete, pillars and exposed metalwork, contrasting with the museum’s contemporary offering. There is also a library, auditorium, cafe and shop, where you can pick up books, prints and design objects.

At Andaz hotels and resorts, global travel is inspired by local culture. Use code ROADBOOK to save 15 per cent on stays booked and taken before 31 December 2026. hyatt.com/andaz