A weekend in Utrecht: the best places to stay, eat, shop and explore

Though many refer to it as a ‘mini Amsterdam’, Utrecht is older and dates back to the Roman period, when it was an outpost on the edge of the empire. Since then, it’s seen Viking raids, the rise of a bustling medieval city built on trade, independence from Spain, and the creation of the Dutch Republic. It’s played host to Napoleon’s brother, retains remnants from the second world war, and saw the rise of a punk subculture during the 1970s. Today, visitors can take in these visible layers of history over a drink on its characteristic split-level canals.

But Utrecht isn’t just about its past. As a university city and haven for expats escaping Amsterdam’s steep prices, it’s become a cosmopolitan hotspot brimming with creativity, from its culinary scene to its international music acts.

Where to drink

As a university town, Utrecht has plenty of lively drinking spots for every taste, from fancy cocktail bars to relaxed pubs. But if you want a unique experience, there are two places you should check out.

In the cellars of a medieval castle on the Oudegracht (old canal), you’ll find Stadskasteel Oudean Brewery. Breweries played an important role in the Middle Ages as the majority of the population (including children) drank beer because the fermentation process made it safer than water. This microbrewery, which was restored in 1986, offers four brews: a white beer, a dubbel, a pilsner, and a bock, which changes seasonally. Opt for a beer tasting or take a tour among the copper stills, where your guide will delve deeper into the history of the powerful families that lived in this city castle, and the current establishment’s unique brewing process.

The facade of the Belgisch Biercafé Olivier looks like a 19th-century townhouse, but inside you’ll find a clandestine church from the 1640s, built by Catholics to continue practising in secret after the Reformation. Facing heavy upkeep costs, it was turned into a cafe in the 2000s that specialises in Belgian and Dutch beers. The new owners retained the building’s historic charm by restoring original ecclesiastical elements and updating the interior with dark wood panelling and soft lighting. Sample an array of beers from its extensive menu, while admiring the original vaulted ceilings, altar and organ.

Must-see sites

Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Kasteel de Haar while in Utrecht, with its fairytale turrets, moat, gardens, and art collection. The castle you see today was fully restored in the 19th century and has played host to a number of celebrity visitors including Coco Chanel, Brigitte Bardot, Yves Saint Laurent, Roger Moore and Gregory Peck. It was opened to the public in 2011 and part of the grounds were converted into a nature reserve.

You can cycle from Utrecht city centre to Kasteel de Haar in 40 minutes, or drive in 30 minutes. Alternatively, take the sprinter train towards The Hague Central Station, get off at Vleuten station, and hop on Bus 111 towards Kasteel de Haar (only running on the weekends).

Leaving the historic for the modern, the Rietveld Schröder House was designed by Utrecht furniture designer Gerrit Rietveld in 1924 in the De Stijl style – a Dutch art movement that pioneered abstraction. Alongside the building’s distinctive form and use of colour, much of its functional elements were ground-breaking at the time: sliding partition walls allowed the family to enjoy an open-plan living space during the day, before separating into three private rooms at night. The house remained in private ownership until 1985, and is now a Unesco World Heritage site and museum. It’s found on the outskirts of Utrecht, a 50-minute walk from Central Station, or accessible via the number 8 bus, which will get you there in 20 minutes.

Where to find the best coffee

A great way to acquaint yourself with Utrecht is to explore its cafe culture. The Village Coffee & Music is a good place to experience this cosy cafe scene. The cafe roasts its own specialty coffee on a 1955 Probat UG-15, and the staff are just as passionate about coffee as they are about music. Check their website for upcoming live music nights including acoustic and rock performances by local and international acts.

If coffee isn’t your thing, head down the street to De Ontdekking for a high tea with cakes, scones and savoury snacks. The cafe also assembles picnic baskets so you can swing by, pick up your supplies, and find a quiet, sunny spot along Utrecht’s canals. Just around the corner is Utrecht University’s library, formerly Louis Bonaparte’s palace, when he ruled the Netherlands on behalf of his brother, Napoleon.

Where to shop

After a caffeine and cake fix, it’s time to dive into Utrecht’s boutique shopping scene. Just a two-minute walk down Voorstraat is Blackfish, a boutique shop filled with mystical charm. Browsing through the racks in this bohemian store feels like perusing Stevie Nicks’ closet, with a host of 1970s-inspired styles. Spend time looking through the shelves, filled with curiosities from tarot cards and amulets to incense.

A seven-minute walk away, you will find No Vintage Phobia. This boutique shop sells accessories, affordable art, second-hand clothes and premium brands at relaxed prices. Don’t know what you’re looking for? They have a partnership with style coach Mirjam Hamming, who can help you discover your personal style.

Where to check out music

Utrecht has long had a vibrant music culture. During the 1970s, a group of squatters took over the 19th-century building at Oudegracht 245 and turned it into Tivoli, a grassroots music venue for punk rock gigs. In 1982, the municipality gave Tivoli a legal licence and its stage went on to welcome acts including Pearl Jam, Pixies, Nirvana and Arctic Monkeys.

In 2014, Tivoli merged with Muziekcentrum Vredenburg, and Utrecht’s ultra-modern concert hall, Tivolivredenburg, was born. The venue offers an eclectic mix of shows from classical and jazz to rock and pop, hosting the likes of The Rolling Stones.

If you’re travelling to Utrecht in November, check out Le Guess Who? music festival. During this annual four-day festival, you can find shows from 150 international musicians taking places across the city’s different venues, theatres, churches, clubs and warehouses. Representing a wide range of genres, what brings these musicians together is a focus on underrepresented sounds that pushes boundaries and provides fresh perspectives.

Where to eat

For a relatively small city centre, Utrecht is packed with fine dining and casual restaurants. Ruby Rose serves excellent Mediterranean-inspired cooking at lunch and dinner. Don’t know what to choose? A great option is the Ruby Tree, which offers small portions of the restaurant’s nine best dishes, served in wine glasses. Staying true to the art nouveau-era building it’s housed in (which was originally a flower shop), the decor features vibrant floral murals, plush velvet seating and a rose garden-themed bar.

If you’re looking for fresh ingredients and a focus on sustainability, Restaurant Concours is the place to go. Chef Alex Zeelenberg is continuously coming up with new seasonal dishes using the ingredients grown in the restaurant’s nearby city garden. It’s recommended to book in advance but, if you’re not able to get a spot, check out its wine bar just across the street.

Looking for a quick, delicious bite? TIJM is a laid-back coffee house and restaurant that offers both sit-in and on-the-go options. It has two locations, one at Donkere Gaard in the city centre and another around the corner from the Speeltuin Griftstede Park. If you’re going for brunch, don’t miss the pancakes with mascarpone, lime, pomegranate seeds and maple syrup.

Where to stay

The Nox Hotel

Best for: Historic building with an onsite gastronomic experience
Location: Keistraat 8, 3512 HV Utrecht
Price: Rooms from 122 euros

The Nox Hotel is located in the heart of the historic city centre off a small, quiet street. The hotel is housed in a restored 17th-century building fitted out with all the modern conveniences. You can choose from six different room sizes, from a smaller budget room to a honeymoon suite. Don’t miss out on Restaurant Hemel & Aarde, which is located on the ground floor. Translating to “Heaven and Earth,” Chef Rene van der Weijden draws inspiration for his dishes from nature using only natural processes and seasonal products. The elegant interior retains historic elements from the building’s past, and boasts a ceiling mural of the night sky, representing the influence of the sun, moon and stars over the Earth’s natural cycles.

The Hunfeld

Best for: Boutique hotel with apartment options
Location: Mariaplaats 4, 3511 LH Utrecht
Price: Rooms from 116 euros

Just a 12-minute walk from Utrecht’s Central Station, you’ll find The Hunfeld. This boutique hotel is located in the bustling De Mariaplaats in the heart of the city, and offers four room options or apartments if you want to book a longer stay. The building was originally the site of Utrecht’s first mens’ fashion store, Grove & Hunfeld, which sold custom-made clothing from 1895. This history is reflected in the hotel’s design, from the upholstery to the works of art on the walls, featuring classic fabrics and cuts.

Bunk Utrecht

Best for: Options for all budgets in a historic church
Location: Catharijnekade 9, 3511 RT Utrecht
Price: Sleeping pods starting from 42 euros

Housed in a beautifully restored church, Bunk has a range of options for all types of visits, whether you want to rent a sleeping pod for an overnight stay or book a four-person room for a weekend away with friends. There’s an excellent restaurant located onsite, and regular activities and events are organised here, from live music performances to art workshops and fashion shows.

Getting there

The two closest airports to Utrecht are Amsterdam Schipol and Eindhoven Airport.

There are 111 trains that go between Amsterdam and Utrecht every day, so timing isn’t a problem. It takes 27 minutes to get to the city from Amsterdam Central and costs 8.80 EUR. Ninety-three trains go between Eindhoven and Utrecht a day. The journey takes 50 minutes and costs 16.90 EUR.

There are also regular connections to Utrecht from other major Dutch cities such as the Hague and Rotterdam. You can book online at the national rail service.

The historic city centre of Utrecht is compact and easily walkable. You can opt to rent a bike or travel the canals by boat or SUP board.