My City: Copenhagen

It’s early afternoon on a sunny Wednesday, late July. A text from an architect friend with a simple invitation: “Raft today, around 5pm?” A couple of hours later, five of us are sitting on a custom-built wooden vessel that is little more than a pontoon with a motor, drinking cans of Tuborg Classic as we breeze along canals, taking in sites that include the Olafur Eliasson-designed Circle Bridge, the impressive cantilevered roof of the Royal Danish Opera House and the pretty houseboats of Christianshavn.

As the sun starts to dip, it’s back onto dry land. We climb onto our bicycles and head off in different directions. For me, it’s dinner with another friend at newly opened Graziano, a stylishly casual Italian restaurant where offerings include an artfully presented spaghetti al pomodoro and a joyful dessert consisting of a puffy donut topped with ice cream and burnt figs. We sit outside on the cobbles until well after dark, chatting anything and everything as we sip homemade limoncello.

There is nothing quite like summer in Copenhagen.

For the past 17 years, I have been a proud Londoner. In June 2024, I temporarily relocated to the Danish capital. I had visited many times over recent years, finding myself increasingly charmed by its friendly people, who speak perfect English and, more importantly, never seem to mind doing so; by the quality of life, which regularly ranks among the highest of any city in the world; and – as a journalist who specialises in architecture and design – by its rapidly expanding creative scene. Copenhagen is not just home to a host of hip fashion, furniture and lifestyle brands (think Ganni, Norse Projects, Hay) but it’s also the destination for annual festival 3daysofdesign, which is fast becoming a rival to Milan’s famous Salone del Mobile.

Before I arrived, I had one reservation. I feared I might miss the energy of London, that I would be overwhelmed by FOMO when I saw my friends attending the stream of parties, exhibition openings and events that were a part of everyday life back home. But I needn’t have worried. The experience was like a breath of fresh air. Suddenly life became very easy.

Copenhagen is the largest of the Scandinavian capitals but it’s still relatively small, with a population of 1.3 million, and it is very easy to get around. You can cycle pretty much anywhere in under 20 minutes, often less. Compared with London, where it takes close to an hour to get anywhere, here it feels like you have so much more time in your day. Yet there is never a sense you might run out of things to see, do or taste. There are always more restaurants to try, exhibitions to visit and new friends to make. The difference here is that you can pack a lot in without exhausting yourself in the process.

Almost every hotel in the city offers bike hire, whether you’re staying at the stunning Hotel Sanders or the budget-friendly Steel House, but I prefer the Donkey Republic bikes. There are hundreds of pickup points, so you’re never far from one, and the handy clipboards on the handlebars mean you can navigate the city’s 546 kilometres of cycle paths via Google Maps hands-free. Swapfiets is another option, with a monthly hire package that is better suited to longer stays. But if you aren’t comfortable on a bike, the rapid construction of the metro means cycling is no longer essential. When this network first opened in 2002, there were only nine stations. Now there are more than 40, connected round the clock by space-age driverless trains that mean you can sit up front and enjoy the view as you speed through the tunnels.

Wild swimming is a big part of the city’s appeal. There’s nothing quite like jumping in the harbour at the end of a busy day. For a family-friendly spot, the Sandkaj and Islands Brygge harbour baths are both great choices, as they include floating pools designed with children in mind. Hipsters will prefer the laid-back feel of La Banchina, a quayside cafe in Refshaleøen, while the zigzagging slopes of the new deck on Paper Island will appeal to those who enjoy a leisurely sunbathe between dips. Or you can head out to the beach and lagoon at Amager, just outside the city centre. Here you can kayak or windsurf, or dive from five metres up courtesy of the architectural landmark known as Sneglen (the snail) for its shell-shaped form.

When it comes to food, it’s hard to go wrong. A few years back, someone told me Copenhagen had great fine dining but lacked the kind of places where you can grab a quick bite. That is no longer the case and it’s largely thanks to Noma. Voted best restaurant in the world five times, the experimental foraging-focused approach of this gastronomic mecca didn’t just put Copenhagen dining on the map; it produced a long list of talented chefs who have spread their talents city wide. The juicy tacos at Hija de Sanchez, the expertly crafted pastries at Hart, the puffy-crusted pizzas at BÆST, the seafood treats at Kødbyens Fiskebar, the Japanese-style grilled meats at Kappo Andō; these are just some of the offerings from Noma alumni. The same spirit of inventiveness can be found at Aamann’s, which puts its own spin on Denmark’s traditional smørrebrød, while Gasoline Grill is the place to find the best burgers in town and, according to some, the world. Avoid the queues at its original location, a converted retro gas station, and instead opt for waterside vibes at Broens street-food market.

A weekend can be easily spent without venturing far beyond the city centre – screaming on the triple-looping Demon roller coaster at Tivoli; marvelling at chairs from across history at Designmuseum Danmark; finding designer bargains at department store Illum; or trying to work out why tourists love the Little Mermaid statue so much. But you’re missing out if you don’t spend at least some time in the ‘bros’, the more vibrant and diverse neighbourhoods of Vesterbro, Nørrbro and Østerbro. Spend an evening zipping between the buzzy bars of the Meatpacking District, sample the curiously flavoured ice creams at Isoteket (coffee and lemongrass anyone?) or hunt down Hans Christian Andersen’s grave in the calming Assistens Cemetery. Those who venture further afield are even better rewarded. Less than an hour away, find both Alberto Giacometti sculptures and serene seaside views at the Louisiana Museum.

Of course, things aren’t the same when winter arrives, when the days get shorter and the winds pick up. Ask any Dane and they will tell you it’s a quiet time, filled with hygge-worthy nights by the fire, but that the summers more than make up for it. When the sun is shining, Copenhagen can feel like a bubble, populated only by beautiful people living happy, carefree lives. At a time when there is so much going on in the world to make you feel angry and downhearted, it’s a place that brings nourishment and optimism. Come for as long as you can and soak it in it.

Just remember, don’t step out into the bike lanes and, if someone invites you out on the water, always say “ja”.