A local guide to Lumphini, Bangkok’s laidback green enclave

Bangkok’s Lumphini neighbourhood is one of the city’s most verdant upscale locations. It centres on Lumphini Park, the largest green space in the Thai capital, offering a rare contrast to the city rush surrounding it.

Cultural landmarks and rows of embassies reflect Thailand’s long diplomatic history, while the newly developed One Bangkok introduces retail, hospitality and entertainment on a grand scale. At street level, galleries, family businesses and food vendors bring a local rhythm to the neighbourhood.

The area borders Langsuan Road, Wireless Road (Witthayu) and Rama 4, situated near the Silom and Sathorn business districts. Tree-lined avenues provide convenient access to the MRT and BTS, putting the rest of the city easily within reach.

As Andaz One Bangkok opens its doors, we highlight our favourite local haunts in and around Lumphini.

Where to stay in Lumphini

Andaz One Bangkok

Why we rate it: A new lifestyle hotel with a sharp sense of style
Address: 201 Witthayu Road, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand
Price: 10,518.51 THB / 331 USD per night

Andaz One Bangkok joins the dazzling new One Bangkok precinct on the edge of Lumphini Park, housing retail, dining and entertainment. Interiors draw inspiration from mid-century modern Thai style, balancing warm timber and teak with soft curves with pops of bright colour. Highlights include the infinity pool, sleek fitness centre with floor-to-ceiling workout views and myriad dining options, including Mediterranean-leaning Piscari on the 23rd floor. Read more about Andaz One Bangkok here.

Local attractions

Lumphini Park

Why we rate it: An expansive green escape
Address: 139/4 Wireless Road (Witthayu Road), Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok
Price: Free

Known as Bangkok’s “Green Lung”, Lumphini Park offers a lush and quiet counterpoint to the nearby business districts. Early mornings see joggers trace the 2.5km winding path while locals practise Tai Chi between the trees. Families can spend an entire day at one of the playgrounds, rent a swan paddle boat or have a picnic lakeside while looking out for one of the city’s infamous monitor lizards. Snacks and drinks are available near the southwest entrance, across from the Silom MRT station, where food stalls are set up from dawn to late afternoon.

Coffee shops, restaurants and bars

Tarns Coffee

Why we rate it: Carefully sourced beans and local art
Address: 170 11 Suan Phlu Road Thung Maha, Sathon, Bangkok 10120

Tarns is a charming specialty coffee on Suan Plu Road, known for its free-spirited, residential atmosphere. The shop is simple yet inviting, with small tables, local artwork and a peaceful tree-lined terrace. Coffee beans hail from small-batch producers in Colombia, Ethiopia and Northern Thailand, while an in-house Colombian blend carries notes of plum, blood orange and caramel. Espresso and matcha are served alongside unique creations such as a house-crafted apple caramel cold brew. It is a restorative spot for a pour over coffee, while taking in Bangkok’s streetlife.

Polo Fried Chicken

Why we rate it: Family-run Thai street food favourite
Address: 37/1-3 Sanam Khli Alley, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
Price: $$

Bangkok is a diverse latticework of street food found on every corner, but knowing where to stop can be tricky. Polo Fried Chicken is a failsafe local favourite that has been serving its namesake crunchy dish for three generations. Its close proximity to Polo Club, the historic sporting institution, means there’s often an overspill of hi-so regulars, ordering plates of chicken and sticky rice. Each bird weighs no more than 1.3kgs and is fried without flour for a light, crispy texture. Add crispy garlic to scatter over the chicken, and drizzle with chili sauce.

Vesper

Why we rate it: A veteran of Bangkok’s cocktail scene
Address: 10/15 Convent Road Silom, Bangkok 10500 Thailand
Price: $$$

Vesper is a long-established Bangkok watering hole, known for its atmospheric setting and award-winning libations. Clean, crisp martinis and clever concoctions are prepared at a deep-green marble bar by smart suited waiters, and sipped amid dark wood and moody lighting. The current menu is inspired by the British seasons, such as the Beesting, which mixes cognac, carrot and aromatic caraway, along with a touch of honey. A diverse, regular crowd begins the night here, before heading to nearby Eat Me for dinner.

Smalls

Why we rate it: Late-night live jazz
Address: 186/3-4 Suan Phlu 1 Alley, Thung Maha Mek, Sathon, Bangkok 10120
Price: $$$

This neighbourhood jazz bar is a Bangkok institution, with a casual and energetic atmosphere that has kept locals coming back for more than a decade. Cocooned in a converted shophouse, contemporary artwork by Bangkok-based and international artists hangs on exposed brick walls, while rich red velvet curtains frame the space. Expect a low-lit, packed room late into the night, where drinks and light Thai bites are served alongside live jazz, sultry blues and soul music.

Baan Trok Tua Ngork

Why we rate it: A compelling community space blending old and new
Address: 306 Thanon Santiphap, Pom Prap, Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bangkok 10100

Just a few MRT stops from Lumphini, in the heart of Chinatown, Baan Trok is a century-old ancestral home that has been thoughtfully restored by the youngest generation of a local family to create an engaging, design-forward gathering space.

Occupying the ground floor is Delia, an authentic Mexican restaurant. The original structure still bears its concrete beams, tiled floor and shutters, serving as the backdrop for handmade tortillas, filled with grilled Thai tiger prawn, slowly cooked over fire.

A narrow staircase leads to Messenger Service Bar, known for its inventive cocktails served in an award-winning minimalist space that merges the comfort of a living room with the intrigue of a science lab. At the top, The Living Room provides a warm, communal space for workshops, coffee and casual gatherings, all while lounging on handpicked, antique furniture.

Samrub Samrub Thai

Best for: Unpretentious Michelin-starred Thai dining
Address: 39/11 Yommarat Alley, Si Lom, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500
Price: $$$$

Samrub Samrub Thai is widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in Bangkok, run by chef Prin Polsuk and wife,Thanyaporn “Mint” Jarukittikun. Neo-classical Thai dishes honour forgotten ingredients like the punget bustard cardamom, offering a glimpse into Thailand’s culinary heritage. The pared-back space offers counter seating and a few small tables that overlook an open kitchen, where highly skilled chefs slice, stir-fry and engage with diners.

“Samrub” loosely translates to a balanced menu and captures the spirit of the restaurant, where dishes might include housemade black sticky rice noodles, grilled rice field serpent-head fish, or a fiery jungle curry.

Art spaces in and around Lumphini

100 Tonson Foundation

Best for: An influential platform for contemporary Thai art
Address: 100 Soi Tonson, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
Price: Free

100 Tonson Foundation has long been at the forefront of promoting Thai arts both locally and internationally. In 2020, founder Ek-Anong ‘Aey’ Phanachet transformed the gallery into a foundation, extending her commitment to supporting Thai art through publications, talks, workshops and exhibitions. The minimalist space, designed by the late Christian Liaigre, serves as the ideal backdrop for its extended projects, residencies and temporary exhibitions. The gallery has brought international attention to Thai artists such as Yuree Kensaku and Porntaweesak Rimsakul, as well as hosting Yayoi Kusama’s first exhibition in 2005. Additionally, it made history as the first Thai gallery to participate in Art Basel.

Open from Thursday to Sunday, the intimate space draws a local, creative crowd seeking artistic inspiration.

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)

Best for: Learning about Thailand’s art eco-system
Address: 939 Rama I Rd, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
Price: Free

Located in the Siam area, just a 10-minute car ride from Lumphini, BACC is a gargantuan contemporary art space offering deep insights into Thailand’s creative scene. The striking all-white building has nine floors, highlighted by an open atrium and central spiral walkway. Spend an entire day here, browsing rotating exhibitions, theatrical performances and workshops from local and international artists. Pick up a memento in the BACC shop and refuel at Le Pla Daak, the museum cafe serving casual Thai plates. Nearby, Paradai serves locally produced bean-to-bar chocolate.

Jim Thompson Surawong Flagship Store

Best for: An immersive silk extravaganza
Address: 9 Surawong Road, Suriya Wong, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500

American businessman Jim Thompson is often credited with saving Thailand’s silk trade. He mysteriously disappeared in 1967 but his namesake business lives on, with a two-storey teak flagship on Surawong Road. Explore four floors of silk garments including scarves of all sizes and dresses, alongside boldly patterned hand bags. Whether you’re looking to pick up a silk souvenir or not, the colonial-style building is worth a visit for its immersive interiors and home decor inspiration.